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Durarail Assembly Instructions

Instructions for Durarail® welded picket and component assembly.

Welded Picket Assemby Instructions

Note: Ensure that the post base plate is set back from the edge of the deck far enough to ensure that the outside mounting screws will screw into the perimeter deck joist. Failure to screw into the deck joist will weaken the installation. 

  1. Measure the overall deck width. Deduct the backset from the deck edge to the two corner posts. This will be the overall length of the panel you require. Miter the ends of the top receiver.
  2. Install all sleeves (#8x3/4" screws), receiver clips (#10x1 ½" #8 head screws) and/or bottom rail sleeves (#10x1 ½" screws), as required on the posts prior to post installation.
  3. Measure between the end posts and decide where the center posts will now be placed. Cut the bottom rail out on both sides of a picket to allow enough room for the installation of a 1 5/8" post. Remove the cut out picket by breaking the weld on the underside of the top receiver. Insert the post, level and fasten to the top receiver using (# 10x1 ½" #8 head screws) and fasten the bottom rail to the receiver clips by clipping in place. For added strength you may screw the bottom rail to the clips using a (¾" #8 Tec screw). 
  4. Install the picket support legs into the rail panel. Do not screw these legs in place as the final height adjustment will be made at the end of the installation. 
  5. Center the panel on the deck and place one # 14 screw in the center post plates. 
  6. Cut the top rail to length with mitered corners on the end. Snap the top rail onto the top receiver.
  7. Place the end posts with sleeves already installed, on the ends of the top rail and welded panel.
  8. Level the comer posts. Secure the corner sleeves to the top rail and receiver channel using a (#12x1 ½" screw) on the underside of the sleeve. 
  9. Secure all posts completely using (#14x3 or #14x2 screws). 
  10. On a “U” shaped deck repeat the above steps using wall mounts at the structure. There will be adequate leverage on the corner posts to install the top tail and receiver without removing the corner sleeve.
  11. Secure the support legs to the deck using a #12x1 ½" screw. Level the rail and screw the support legs to the bottom rail using a #8x3/4" screw. 
  12. Clean the railing with Vim to remove minor scuffmarks and debris.

Note: Ensure that the post base plates are set back from the edge of the deck far enough to ensure that the outside mounting screws will screw into the perimeter deck joist. Failure to screw into the deck joist will weaken the installation. 

  1. Install all receiver clips (#10x1 1 /2" #8 head screws) and/or bottom rail sleeves (#12x1 ½" screws) as required on the posts prior to post installation. 
  2. Set corner or end posts and level. Place top rail sleeves loosely in these posts. Do not fasten sleeves at this time.
  3. Measure between the inside edge of the two comer posts. Divide this measurement equally to give you the centerline of your posts. Cut the bottom rail to suit the post spacing. Clip the support legs into the bottom rail. You may screw the legs to the bottom rail for added strength. 
  4. Place the center posts on the deck where required. Starting at one end place bottom rail in sleeves or on clips. Screw post base to the deck and level. Fasten bottom rail to the post as required. Enclosed sleeves do not require screws in the bottom rail. Continue installing all center posts.
  5. Cut top receiver channel to length allowing for miter cuts at the comers.
  6. Place the top receiver channel in the corner post sleeves and fasten the receiver to the center posts using only the front and back screw ports. Do not fasten the top receiver channel to the comer posts. Double check the posts for level prior to fastening to the receiver channel.
  7. Measure your top rail and cut to length. Miter cut both ends of this rail.
  8. Remove the comer sleeves and snap the top rail on to the receiver channel. Place the corner sleeves on the ends of the top rail and insert the corner sleeves into the posts.
  9. Secure the corner sleeves to the post. Secure the top rail and receiver to the corner sleeves from the underside of the sleeve.
  10. Secure the support legs to the deck.
  11. Cut the top and bottom picket insert to length and install into the top and bottom channels between posts. 
  12. Install the first picket starting at either end by sliding the picket into the bottom channel on an angle that will allow you to clear the underside of the top rail. Holding the bottom of the picket firm vertically, straighten the picket so it is level and secure in the top and bottom rails. Leave a space approximately 3 ½" between the post and the first picket. Next, install a spacer after the first picket. Continue this operation for the balance of the pickets.
  13. When you have all the pickets in place, gently tap the pickets and spacers together until they are snug and level. Equalize the space between the two posts at either end of the assembled pickets and cut your end spacers to suit the remaining open gap in the top and bottom rails. As an alternative to the above, pickets may be installed simultaneously, followed by all the spacers simultaneously.
  14. Clean your installation with Vim to remove handprints and minor scuffs incurred during installation.

Why Duradek® is Committed to Training

Why does Duradek® train contractors and provide education to architects and designers, and is that important?

It is my understanding that the greater percentage of all building-related lawsuits are due to water intrusion. So, when entering into the field of roofing or waterproofing, one enters into a field wrought with legal liabilities. Because when decks and roof-decks leak they can cause simple water damage or catastrophic failure.


Whether one has flooring, roofing, carpentry or waterproofing experience it is important to augment each trade’s techniques with historical application performance procedures. Having said this, areas that need to be taught for proper PVC waterproof deck installations are proper seam welding and the “capping” of the seams, outside and inside “deck to wall” interface flashing installation, door pan, drain, scupper and overflow application. Deck preparation basics, where you are taught what are acceptable deck construction techniques, slopes and materials, based on successful deck history should also be taught. Now for you professionals, saying that you did not build the deck may not get you off the hook. It is understood that a professional knows what he is placing his product on and its suitability to perform (if you can see it or discover it, you accept it and are most likely liable for it).


One way to get around the problem is sell the product “over the counter” to any one with the cash. This puts all the product performance liability onto the installer, or “Do It Yourselfer” and removes all of the installation and most of the product liability for the manufacturer or reseller. Add to the product a “Limited Material Warranty” that further limits the manufacturer’s liability and specifies the remedy to supplying materials to only the affected area. Also exclude all aethetics issues and put the claim criteria into a fee-based inspection service call and if deemed out of the realm of material problem you can bill the consumer. Now you have a market program provided by many deck product manufacturers.


Please understand I am not a lawyer, so for a complete legal warranty evaluation, please contact such a person (my personal disclaimer). I write this to help, not discourage; to enlighten not mask; to help you make an informed and educated decision. So does Duradek educate and train? Yes they do. Is it important? Absolutely, because when you are committed to an industry and to your customers, it just seems like the right thing to do.


Matt Whale (Duradek Northwest, CSI, CDT, President)

How Many Decks Are You Going to Build?

Why is it that decks, our Great Northwest get away place, only last a decade or so? Roof structures are commonly made of wood and they can last for centuries so why not decks? Chemically pressure treated roof rafters, trusses, joist, planks or plywood aren’t commonly used, why don’t they rot? How does one build a deck once right? 

What causes wood to rot? Rot is the breaking down of an organic mass. Wood rot is natural. Wood, moisture, oxygen and warmth are all simultaneously required for rot to occur, limit the degree of wood’s exposure to one or more of these components and rot slows. Take away one of these components and wood rot stops.


Besides not having a history, let’s look at the facts, the top of the deck is not the primary reason for most deck failures. The surface boards are readily available for oiling, staining, or treatment to keep them from immediate decay. Any twisted, broken or rotted lumber is replaceable with little problem. Even when meticulous care is provided to the deck top the backbone of the deck is neglected. The backbone fails due to the wood structure’s supports and fasteners getting wet. They hold moisture where they are jointed and go through freeze and thaw cycles. Joist and beams left to nature rot or loose hold of fasteners due to the fasteners rusting, lumber’s interior rot or because of the treated soft lumber’s poor holding power. Deck failures occur when the deck becomes unstable or unable to support a load, not because it looks ugly or its getting too costly to maintain. Plastic lumber does nothing to increase the life of the supporting structure, therefore, it is not the fix one would hope.



Over the years as our deck lumber quality and longevity diminished, people have sought deck-tops requiring less maintenance. 

Chemically-treated materials have become common place in the deck market. Improvements to these lumbers have been made, incising, and pressure provide a means to maximize chemical treatment saturation but do not insure 100% penetration of the lumber thus the inner core is commonly still untreated. The harder, stronger woods do not absorb liquids very well, if at all. Therefore, the stronger wood products are not treated and softer wood lumbers are. Softer woods have less structural strength and fastener holding power allowing screws or nails to lose their hold. 

Fasteners penetrate the wood to the inner core allowing water to infiltrate the untreated areas. The sun bakes the deck’s wood surface causing ever widening cracks, which in turn allow deeper moisture penetration. Freeze thaw cycles widen surface splits while attacking and breaking down the wood surrounding the deck fasteners which causes even more moisture retention, ice breakdown, fastener breakdown and finally rot damage. Furthermore, the chemicals themselves may promote fastener, joist hanger and sway strapping corrosion. Indeed most common metals used in conjunction with the deck need some type of chemical or natural shield. The lumber joints, whether butted, sistered or laid together, remains wet for days allowing further breakdown, diminishing the deck integrity until finally, complete structural failure occurs. 

Treated docks fail and that proof is everywhere, just take a drive to any water’s edge and look. No, treated lumber only addresses the decay and insect infestation issues; therefore, it is also not the fix one would desire.



  • Only use treated ground contact lumber where required by building code 
  • Use Douglas Fir framing lumber when possible 
  • Slope the top surface ¼ inch per foot to allow water run-off 
  • Use ¾ in CCX or better Cross Banded end blocked or tongue and grove plywood 
  • Acclimate all lumber and plywood before installing 
  • Glue and screw the deck plywood 
  • Provide plenty of ventilation to the joist and underlying lumber
  • Verify factory authorized installation company 
  • Keep all the fasteners and hangers from getting wet 
  • Keep the supporting structure from getting wet
  • Use a proven waterproof product 
  • Verify factory training installer program 
  • Complete a moisture survey (nonpenetrating) of the perimeter and deck field every two years 
  • Maintain siding, window, door and post caulking or sealant 
  • Recover or replace membrane surface at serviceable life end 

Duradek Ltd. deck systems comply fully with the “Build It Once Right” qualifications. Having been protecting sundecks, roofdecks, walkways and porches, including their structures, for thirty years, Duradek also has the proof.

Duradek Northwest has the oldest, largest and most experienced local waterproof vinyl deck authorized installer network available. Duradek membranes are thermal plastic, this means they can not peel or flake and need no coating to maintain their warranty. Deck failures can mean much more than just replacing your deck, they are connected to your home or building and rot does not know the difference or have boundaries. For complete information on successful deck construction, call Duradek Northwest @ 1.800.442.9215 or visit our web site at www.duradeknorthwest.com.

Duradek and Duradek Northwest Kick It Up a Notch!

Surrey, BC—Oct. 28, 2003 - Matt Whale has successfully negotiated extended support levels from Duradek’s Head Office to bolster his  healthy network of professional contractors. Marketing and technical programs will help create higher levels of professionalism and the best finished products for the consumer. Duradek Northwest is providing all of these services FREE OF CHARGE! 


  • Receive the new Duradek Northwest Marketing Plan
  • Get your hands on a Duradek Northwest Advertising CD
  • Book a Business-to-Business Telemarketing Campaign
  • Update your technical training with a two-day seminar
  • Get your own Duradek E-mail address (your company@duradek.com)

Matt Whale and Duradek Head Office’s Marketing Team (From Left: Jim Szlabon, Jennifer Ogilvie, Matt Whale, Noemi Horvath, Mike Moran)

Call Matt today to get on board with these great tools and programs. 

Duradek Northwest Toll-Free Number: 1-800-442-9215


Download press release.

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